The windy conditions earlier this week made fishing conditions challenging; many of my trips resorted to broadcasting reaction baits to catch scattered redfish and speckled trout on leeward shorelines.

But the end of the week provided some great weather with a lot less humidity… actually felt like fall.  This weekend we should fall back into the usual summer weather pattern… so get up early and head to the water before the afternoon thunder storms shut fishing down.

I’ve seen plenty of small tarpon this week rolling in marinas, deeper channels, and residential canals but only managed to hook one.  These tarpon average in the 20lb. to 40lb. range and are a blast when they cooperate… a 4000 size spinner (Daiwa Advantage) with 30# braid and 40# or 50# leader is all you need to play with these guys.  Mirrolures & Baitbusters have been the traditional choices for artificial guys but whitebait under a cork will put a few in the air as well.  The most important factor for me has been fishing early from just before sunrise to about 9am for best results.

Black drum are also a strong target for late summer anglers… we’ve hooked several this week on artificials including a 30 plus pounder by M. Palmer on a Mirrodine!  Bay area bridges and some of the deeper basins in Tampa Bay have been holding some good numbers.  Most anglers assume the big beasts just eat natural bait but a well presented artificial with a little Pro-Cure gel will do just fine much of the time.

My bread and butter target though has been the mighty redfish… and they are biting pretty good right now due to lower water temps from all the rain and wind last week.  I like to target the reds on the mid-tides before they get under the mangroves especially when I have clients throwing spoons and jigs.  The lower bay seems to be holding most of the over-slot reds but I have found good concentrations inside the bay as well from Apollo Beach all the way up to the Gandy area. 

If you haven’t tried the new Mini-Dine from Mirrolure around the big reds… you are missing out.  With all the small sizzle bait in the bay… the Mini-dine seems to be the perfect lure for their dietary needs.  They crush’em better than spoons and jigs, right now!

If trout are in your sights… fish the deeper grass flats around the Skyway area.  Most fish are in the smaller range but occasionally a 17″ to 20″ speck will surprise you.  Strike King Glass Minnows are pinfish resillient and the trout gobble them up on a 1/4 oz. jig head.  Best color has been pear white for my clients with a chartruese jig head!  

That’s it for this week… for more up to the minute fishing action stay in touch with me on Facebook & Twitter!

For more Flats Class charter info… please contact me at 727.647.9356 or carichardson@flatsclass.com, flatsclasscharters@gmail.com  

Until next week… Keep’em Bent!

Find the food… find the fish, maybe the most obvious pattern anglers can use to locate prized game fish.  And when I’m on the water with my Flats Class Charter clients, I constantly re-enforce to them that they must focus on bait activity first to remain in the area where game fish are feeding.  An experienced angler knows what signs to look for when he approaches the zone he intends to fish; conversely if these “signs of life” are not present he’ll know he’s probably wasting his time and needs to look elsewhere.

Some of the prime indicators that a flat or body of water is holding game fish are working birds, active mullet, glass minnow or pilchard schools at the surface, and finally visual confirmation of ample shrimp or crab populations in the area.  These visual cues on the flat, tell me that game fish are likely around and give me a big head start on how to “match the hatch”.  When you hear the term “match the hatch”, it simply means mimic the predominant forage in the area… here’ an example, I prefer tube baits to match shrimp and top water plugs to correspond with mullet.

I’ll break down the signals for you that I consider crucial “signs of life” activity and what they should mean to you the angler.  We’ll look at wading birds first, these types of birds in numbers on a low-tide flat usually indicate plenty of grazing forage for tailing redfish & sheepshead… lots of marine worms and small shrimp life should be available when you see wading birds actively working.  Choose lures that imitate these crustaceans and fish them slow to maximize your results when you see this scenario at hand. 

Now let’s tackle diving birds, when I see brown pelicans and terns diving on bait fish, I know for certain they’ll be numerous predators such as Spanish mackerel, speckled trout, ladyfish, jacks, bonito, and even sharks.  After a few minutes of observation I’ll match my lures to mimic the flashing bait fish being attacked from the diving birds… some of my favorites include silver Clark spoons, Mirro-dines, and small sharply retrieved white buck tail jigs.  An up-tempo retrieve is usually required in this particular situation to duplicate the frenzied bait fish!

When I notice heavy mullet activity on an incoming tide, I feel confident that redfish, snook, and big trout will be in the neighborhood.  Big active mullet schools provide the perfect recipe for anglers to toss a variety of artificial lures with good success because of the mud and turbulence the school creates as it moves across the flat.  Lures like spoons, 5” soft plastic flukes, and top water plugs get the attention of all the hungry predators using the mullet school to turn up a morsel or two.  Game fish using big mullet schools are often distracted and are very aggressive… just be careful not to spook the mullet and you’ll catch plenty of fish.

Small glass minnow pods and pilchard schools (sizzle bait) over grass flats are key signs that the flat is alive with ambush predators like speckled trout, ladyfish, and snook.  This is a textbook opportunity to employ a Mirro-dine or a Mirro-minnow suspending twitch bait… these lures do the best job of matching the hatch in this scenario.  In fact, it has to be one of my favorite patterns in the spring and summer… bar none.  

Even during the tarpon run, I look for big boiling threadfin schools (big baits) along the beaches, shipping channels, and bridges… this is an undeniable protein source that the tarpon are following during the late spring and through the summer months.  Net these big baits (threadfins) up and launch them in front of a slow rolling school of poons and hang on!  Big threadfin schools are also magnets for schoolie kingfish, big Spanish mackerel, and cobia.

Finally the crustacean pattern… it’s not as apparent as the above signals.  You have to pay close attention for occasional fleeing shrimp hopping along the grass shoreline or for crabs making paddle signatures on the surface at low tide.  Tuning in to this pattern requires a little more visual awareness on the anglers part… here are a few tips aside from the obvious ones above.  Ask yourself do you see other predators that target shrimp or crabs like herons & egrets, big southern stingrays or sheepshead working the flat?  Time of year also can be a factor… is there a crab hatch or shrimp run happening right now even if it’s not that evident where you are currently fishing?  Once you determine that there is a proliferation of crustaceans in the area, often times the color and tempo of the retrieve is more important than the bait profile!  Colors based around browns and greens usually excel in areas where the fish are tuned into the crustacean pattern… some of my favorite lures to use in this scenario are tubes, Rage Tail shrimp & crab soft plastics, and a dark colored buck tail jig.

In closing, I re-iterate to my charter clients, trip after trip, you need to find the food source first and the predator fish you are targeting won’t be far behind…  it’s simple math “find the prey = find the predator”.

Keep’em Bent,

Capt. C.A. Richardson

The argument that lure color is over-rated is an old one but for inshore anglers I believe it’s just as important as presentation and profile.  Because most inshore anglers focus on water that is generally shallow all the color hues in the spectrum come into play and can make a difference whether the fish bite or reject a lure.

Several conditions must be factored into the equation when determining what color is the best for a particular scenario.  Some of the factors that have to be considered are water clarity, atmospheric conditions, and available forage.  My competitive fishing background and my successful Flats Class Charter business have given me years of experience to draw from when it comes to choosing the right color for particular scenarios.  Below are some of the progressions that help me select the best color for targeting fish in shallow water.

Water Clarity

Seventy five percent of the time I’m fishing in clear water on the flats… natural hues like silver, white, and colors that match the bottom (browns & greens) are perfect for clear water scenarios.  Silver spoons, chrome finished plugs, and pearl white lures are perfect choices when imitating baitfish in crystal clear water.  Earthy colors like bone, watermelon, and root beer are equally effective in clear water when using crustacean or small minnow profiles.  If the water is clear, just think natural and you’ll be on the right path.

When I’m fishing tannin water (tea colored)… I typically choose orange and red color hues or gold finishes that look very natural in that environment.  Plus these colors increase the strike zone because they are much more visible from a greater distance.  Gold spoons, orange bellied plugs, new penny soft baits, and craw colored crank baits excel in tannin water fisheries.  In my opinion, there is nothing better than a black backed, gold-sided, orange bellied plug for fishing creeks for snook in the fall… its truly magic.

And turbid conditions (muddy) usually have me tying on chartreuse, black, or fire tiger colors.  These colors create easier visual targets for fish in dirty water.  For instance, one of my favorite colors to present to feeding redfish in mullet or stingray muds is the color black… because it is much easier for the redfish to find in the turbid water.  Always think contrast when fishing turbid conditions… remembering that they’ve got to see it to eat it!

Atmospheric Conditions

What I mean by atmospheric conditions is what type of sky are you fishing under… clear blue bird, grey overcast, or even dead of night.  Cloud cover effects light penetration below the surface and consequently effects color selection.  The standard amongst most anglers is to fish lighter colored baits under bright skies and darker colored baits on cloudy days… for the most part, this is true.  I adjust my colors based off changing conditions. For example, if I start my fishing day off in the pre-dawn hours, I’ll use a darker top water bait to silhouette against the twilight.  As conditions get brighter I’ll switch up to a chrome colored suspending plug or a pearl colored soft bait.  When the afternoon storms roll in and the skies get a little darker,  I’ll add a chartreuse jig head to my soft baits or maybe roll a green or pink colored spoon that attracts a little more attention in that lower-light scenario. 

Sometimes I’ll also consider wind conditions as well… smooth water allows for greater light penetration whereas choppy water diffuses light minimizing light penetration.  Here again lighter more natural colors work better in calm water and conversely darker or brighter colors will probably get better results on those windy days.

Available Forage

The”match the hatch” mentality… is pretty important!  The best rule here is to be aware of the forage that your target species is focused on at that time of the year… albeit shrimp, crabs, mullet, pinfish, or whitebait.  Don’t be the angler throwing a new penny colored soft bait if the big trout are blasting chrome finished top water plugs during the seasonal mullet run.  Always match the color and profile to what the fish are feeding on in that particular area or what food source is available that time of year and you’ll be well on your way to pulling on a few good fish.

Wrap-Up

Hopefully, some of the information I’ve provided you will steer you in the right direction when it comes to choosing lure colors in various situations.  There are always exceptions to the rule… but the above guidelines are a great starting point to start your fishing excursion.  In my opinion, color does matter most of the time!

Keep’em Bent

Capt. C.A. Richardson- www.captaincarichardson.com

One of my most successful techniques to utilize during the heat of summer is “skippin’ mangroves” with artificials or cut bait (mullet or ladyfish).  Ever wonder where all those redfish go when the tide gets super high in the middle of the day?  If you guessed tucked up under the mangroves… you’re on the right track.  Skipping the “bushes” is what the locals call it and it’s a deadly technique on snook and redfish on higher water because there’s zero angling pressure on these fish.  Every summer I take my Flats Class clients out to teach them this skipping technique and they’re stunned to learn about this unknown fishery that’s available to them.

Mangrove shorelines that consistently produce decent fish will probably have the following components… deeper water, scattered oyster bars, hidden drains, and big mullet milling in & out of the shade line.  I like to use my Minn-Kota trolling motor for covering these mangrove shoreline zones and maximize my search efforts instead of push poling.  The trolling motor not only let’s me cover more shoreline but gives me added power to pull big fish out from under the mangrove roots and limbs once I’m hooked up.  Try to keep a manageable distance (30 feet) off the shoreline so you won’t spook the fish you’re targeting… but even when you do blow fish out they often return 20 minutes later to the same location.

The key to skipping soft plastics under the mangroves is a sharp low-trajectory cast that skips the lure several feet back under the mangrove limbs.  It takes a little practice to become proficient at this cast but once mastered… a skilled angler will be able to catch fish when no one else has a chance.  I start my cast with the rod tip at a low angle and try to keep it parallel to the surface throughout the cast until the very end of the casting motion where I gently lift the rod tip up.  And yes, you will get hung up a great deal and if you’re not hanging up from time to time… well then you’re not probably getting the lure back in there where the snook & reds are foraging for food. 

Tackle I recommend for “skippin’ mangroves” in general would be a 6’8” to 7’0 medium heavy action spinning rod with an extra fast tip… you’ll need a rod that can skip a Texas-rigged soft plastic but with enough back bone to pull fish out of the cover without giving up line .  I like a 4000 size (TDA Advantage) spinning reel because it has a bigger spool that picks up more line per handle turn… very important when you can’t give up any line in this “locked down drag” scenario!  I like to spool up my Daiwa Advantage 4000 with a minimum of 40lb. braid and at least a 50lb. fluorocarbon leader.  This brutish mode of fishing is no place for standard flats fishing equipment unless you like the sound of “zing pow” after each hook up!

My favorite lure for skipping is the Strike King “Z-Too” series rigged Texas style on a 5/0 heavy wire rigging hook… a heavy strong hook is a must in these “can give an inch” zones!  The buoyancy of the Elazatec material of the Strike King Z-Too matched with the 5/0 hook is perfect for a nice natural slow fall that drives fish crazy. Colors that get results for me are pearl and watermelon red flake… some days the fish want lighter colored baits and other days they prefer darker colors.  Once my Z-Too is skipped into the zone… I like to let it gently glide down into and around the mangrove roots and slowly retrieve it with a slight lift and fall action.  Of course, lures coated with Pro-Cure gel scent will get gobbled up even faster… mullet or menhaden scents are better for summer-time fishing in my opinion.

Most importantly once your bait gets hammered under the bushes, a fire drill will ensue… keep your rod tip low, reel like hell, and make sure your trolling motor is pulling the boat away from the mangrove shoreline!  It’s definitely a heart pounding, adrenaline rush filled, combative brand of fishing that you’ll find to be very rewarding during the “dog days” of summer!

Keep’em Bent,

Capt. C.A. Richardson

When the mercury in the thermometer on my back porch creeps up to the mid 90’s, I know it’s the right time to hit the dock lights after dark to beat the summer heat. 

Dock light fishing is nothing new to Florida anglers… in fact; it’s quite popular especially with avid snook anglers.  The attraction to this night-time style of angling is that it is so visual… you can literally watch the fish take your bait!  In addition, fishing under the lights after dark gives anglers the opportunity to catch a variety of species such as speckled trout, snook, redfish, snapper, and even flounder.  When you add it all up, a cool comfortable venue, mixed bag action, and the visual component of actually witnessing the strike… it’s easy to get hooked on this hot summer night style of fishing.

Productive Dock Lights

Obviously dock lights with fish activity will be the best but here are a few more factors to consider when targeting dock lights.  Decent water flow is important during the summertime… I favor dock lights that are adjacent to channels or close to outside points to guarantee good current flow.  Additionally depth plays a major role as well… I find that dock lights with 6 feet of depth or more generally attract larger predator fish.  Another factor is the type of dock light you choose to target, above water lights or the popular underwater lights.  For example, light from above the surface shining down creates a darker silhouette effect on your bait… this scenario makes game fish less wary and easier to catch at times.  Whereas the underwater lights,  up-light your bait or lure giving the fish a better look at your offering… this sometimes makes it difficult to get hooked up.  Also the underwater lights make fish easier to see for most anglers… thus they get a lot more angling pressure.

How to Approach

I like to keep my guide clients about 25’ to 30’ off the dock lights we target to ensure consistent success.  Use a trolling motor not your outboard to ease into position… always shut your main engine down at least hundred yards away from the dock lights you intend to fish.  If the depth of water you are fishing is 8’ or less, use your Power-Pole to anchor… it’s much stealthier than a standard anchor and you’ll have much better boat control.  If fishing deeper water docks, have about 20’ to 30’ feet of anchor line attached to a 12lb. sea-claw style anchor at hand ready to deploy.  It’s critical to slip the anchor over the side quietly and set it smoothly as not to alarm the fish in the light!  Once you are into position ready to fish… you must keep in mind to move slowly and very light-footed around the boat so noise isn’t transferred through the hull and putting the dock light fish on alert.

Tackle Needed

For general dock light fishing… I prefer a 6’8” to 7’ medium heavy spinning rod with an extra fast tip.  This spinning rod set-up allows me to make accurate casts and even skip small baits under the docks… yet provides me with enough leverage to over-power a big redfish or snook.  A 3000 or 4000 size spinning reel is a good choice packed with 30# braid with the drag locked down… you don’t want the fish to take any line because that usually ends in a cut-off followed by bad language!  Leader requirements vary based on what species you are trying to catch.  Here’s an example, speckled trout may only require 20# to 25# leader whereas the brutish snook requires a 40# or greater leader to have a chance.  Leader length should be at least 3’ and I always use fluorocarbon leader material because the bait generally gets a long look from dock light fish. 

Lures & Natural Baits

Smaller artificial baits or even flies work best in the lights… some of my favorites are ¼ oz. white buck tail jigs, the Strike King Rage Tail Shrimp, and the new Mirrodine-Mini;  Fly rod anglers do very well on most light colored shrimp and glass minnow patterns.  The live bait method typically guarantees lots of action… baits that produce “night in and night out” are small scaled sardines (whitebait) and live shrimp.   Just free-line the natural bait from the up current side of the light to the down current edge of the light and hang on… something will clobber it!  The only downside to the live bait method is the number of ladyfish and catfish you have to weed through some nights but that’s just part of it.

Night-time Etiquette

This is very important because poor manners will have dock owners turning off their lights!  Here are the two most important rules to live by when fishing private docks at night.  Rule one is to never, ever get on a dock owner’s private property… not even to retrieve an expensive lure!  And rule number two, is to keep your noise level to an absolute minimum… no radio, no swearing, use whispering voices to communicate only, keep the lights in your boat off except navigation lights when possible, and please never fire up your big outboard in their backyard when you leaving the area.  Just use common sense and have consideration for the homeowners who have their dock lights available for us to fish… that way everyone can enjoy this great summer fishery!   

Keep’em Bent my friends,

Capt. C.A. Richardson

A family favorite around our house every summer is the beginning of “scallop” season… when July arrives we make a pilgrimage up to the Crystal River area for some good family fun.  Scalloping is also a great way to beat the summer heat … the cool clear water of the Nature Coast is very refreshing while probing for these tasty shellfish morsels.

The basic gear you’ll need to have for your scalloping adventure is a mask, snorkel, fins, and a mesh bag for collecting your scallops.  You also must have a dive flag visibly displayed on your vessel and I recommend a floating buoy-style dive flag for snorkelers prospecting away from an anchored boat… safety is important with above average boat traffic!  Always keep one adult onboard to keep everyone safe while the rest of your friends and family are harvesting… again safety first.  Remember it’s just like a big “Easter Egg” underwater… you’ll find plenty of scallops in the eel grass beds in about 3’ to 8’ of water.  Wave your hand through the eel grass and you’ll notice the scallops resting dark side of the shell up… when you reach for them, you’ll discover that they’re amazingly good escape artists; jetting away!   

Here are some of the regulations for scalloping but always check for updates at www.myFWC.com for rule changes.   Florida’s scallop season typically opens July 1 but this year because of the BP Gulf Oil Disaster it opened two weeks earlier.  You’ll need a Florida saltwater fishing license and scallop harvesting is only permitted from about Aripeka, FL north to around Mexico Beach, FL… again check the FWC website for exact border coordinates.  Most important are your harvesting limits… recreational harvesters are allowed 2 gallons of scallops in the shell or 1 pint of scallop meat per person.  The boat limit regardless of the number of harvesters (5 or more) is 10 gallons in the shell or a ½ gallon of scallop meat total.  Don’t exceed your limit… play by the rules and we will always have a healthy scallop crop!

Lastly, there is a little work involved with cleaning the harvested scallops but it’s well worth it.  The work goes fast if you have two or three people cleaning the scallops… ten gallons can be done in one hour once you get the hang of it.  Here is the quick run-down on the cleaning process… open the shell with an oyster knife and cut the dark side of the shell away from the scallop meat.  Then carefully take the knife and scrape from the base of the scallop meat attached in the lighter colored shell upwards to remove the organs (guts) of the scallop… this leaves just the white scallop meat.  Finally, gently cut the clean white scallop meat from the shell, rinse and put on ice.  Repeat.

There are some fantastic scallop recipes online… here at Flats Class we like them “scampi style” over white rice or mixed in with shrimp over a bed of angel hair pasta with a spicy red sauce ladled on top.  Ummm, I’m getting hungry just thinking about it… so get in on the fun, take your friends and family scalloping this summer, you’ll love it!

Keep’em Bent

Most anglers like to homogenize leader choices based on the targeted species alone… that can be a big mistake.  When I’m making leader selections, I weigh several factors including focus species, water clarity, lure application, and the environment I’ll be fishing around.

I for one am a huge fan of fluorocarbon leader material and favor it over the standard monofilament leader that is much less expensive.  Here’s why…  fluorocarbon is practically invisible, has better abrasion resistance, thinner diameter with a faster sink rate, and finally better knot strength. 

Fishing for shallow water gamesters like trout and redfish typically require 30” of fluorocarbon leader in the 20# to 30# class.  But if you factor scenarios where crystal clear water and bright blue-bird skies come into play… you might be better off tying on 48” of 15# fluorocarbon to get a suitable number of bites.   Another situation that might require a leader upgrade would be dock fishing or skipping baits underneath mangrove shorelines… this is where 40# to 50# test leader makes all the difference between catching them or breaking them off.   Truly it all comes down to adapting to the conditions at hand.  

Naturally if I’m looking to catch tarpon, a heavier leader is going to be necessary… but how heavy?  Well that depends on where & how I’m I fishing… shallow gin-clear water on the beach, deep water passes, live bait or artificial lures, stained water in the backcountry or fishing around bridges and piers.   For instance on beach tarpon, when the water is clear and the winds are calm, I use 5’ to 6’ of 50# to 60# fluorocarbon leader to enhance my chances of jumping a wary slow rolling tarpon.  And then again if I decide to fish the “hill Tide” at the Skyway Bridge or drift the infamous Boca Grande Pass… I’m likely to beef up my leader to 80# fluorocarbon and sometimes even 100# to increase the likelihood of boating a big tarpon in heavy boat traffic where lots of pressure is going to be applied to shorten the fight time.

Tossing certain artificial lures will also affect my leader choices… for example heavier class leaders often destroy the action of smaller plugs & jigs.  Actually top water plugs perform better with a short piece (12”) of monofilament leader rather than the heavier fluorocarbon material that sometimes weighs the nose of the bait down creating a less desirable action.  It’s all about balance when it comes to the artificial game, so experimentation is a necessity to match the right leader requirements to achieve the best lure action.

Finally, there is a wide array of connecting knots for braid and monofilament line to fluorocarbon leader material; some of my favorites are the Uni-Knot, Triple Surgeons, and the No Name Knot.  Don’t get intimidated… you can master any of these line-to-leader knots and more by viewing them over and over on You Tube… it’s a great resource for learning how-to tie knots.      

 Keep’em Bent

I get the opportunity to R&D a number of products in our industry; some standout, some really don’t… but the new Navionics Fish N’ Chip has definitely impressed me!  I put the new Fish N’ Chip in my Raymarine C90 Wide about 2 weeks ago… and it has showed me underwater contour detail about some of the areas I have been fishing for years.  I really had no idea what I was missing before using this amazing tool!  I now feel as if I’m armed with a piece of technology that will absolutely help me catch more fish for my clients and pattern fish for future tournaments and TV shows.

If you’ve ever wondered where do those redfish go when the tide starts to fall?  The Fish N’ Chip will reveal to you the drains and bowls the redfish are most likely to use during lower tide phases.  Additionally the Fish N’ Chip has been useful for finding “oxbows & hooks” along sand bars and channels that you can’t see… these are places trout, snook, and even tarpon use for ambushing bait!  The new Fish N’ Chip also gives me information on bottom make-up, wrecks, tide info, and even current velocity… this technology will shorten the learning curve for all anglers.  It’s almost cheating once you start developing and understanding patterns, like why & where fish position during certain phases of the tide or when the current picks up or even slows down.  All this information is now at your finger tips.

Here is a quick scenario where the Fish N’ Chip helped out during a recent FCTV episode… our tarpon were strung out along the beach but in no particular groove, very frustrating and very hard to get hooked up.  I  referred to the Fish N’ Chip’s detailed contour chart and located a zone where the tarpon should pinch together  based on the contour of the beach giving us more shots at them… to make a long story short, the tarpon funneled down the predicted edge and we jumped three.  It sold me… the Fish N’ Chip is like having a local guide in your boat!     

The new Fish N’ Chip obviously provides inshore anglers with undoubtedly the most detailed chart information available today.  I promise you once you use this new Navionics offering… you’ll be hooked just like me!

For more information about the new Fish N’ Chip visit: www.navionics.com/MarineFeatures_FishNChip.asp

When late spring and early summer arrive, I’m looking for opportunities to pick a fight with a big fish… such as tarpon, sharks, cobia, permit and giant pass snook!  Tangling with these formidable fish requires a heavy-duty and reliable spinning reel that still has some high performance features… the Daiwa Saltist spinning reel line-up meets and exceeds these demands.

Built to last… it boasts an all metal construction with a sealed water-proof drag and a machined aluminum handle.  With a 6.2 to 1 gear ratio the Saltist 4500H can pick up to 53” of line per handle crank… that is significant when you consider having to leverage a big permit off a wreck or gain valuable line back from a freight training tarpon.  The Saltist also has 5 CRBB’s (corrosion resistant ball bearings) and Digigear technology that provide ultra smooth and ultra strong performance.  Along with a dual full-time anti-reverse, tubular stainless air bail, and a manual bail trip for fewer moving parts… the new Saltist spinners are simple straight forward reels designed to withstand the punishment of big baits and big fish!

My experience field testing the Daiwa Saltist 4500H has been very positive; easily handling hard running sharks and tarpon.  What impresses me most about the Saltist spinners are the tight, smooth tolerances and its flawless drag system… all packed into a rugged, durable reel body.  The Saltist will be my consummate choice when planning future Flats Class TV shows featuring bigger quarry.

So whether you are the avid inshore angler looking for a dependable tarpon reel or the off-shore enthusiast looking for a saltwater-tough spinning reel to do battle with dolphin and sailfish… the new Daiwa Saltist spinning reels will get the job done!  Stop by your local authorized Daiwa retailer and feel the difference yourself.

Every summer around the big moons a phenomenon called the “hill tide” takes place… it puts anglers and tarpon on a collision course in the passes along the west coast of Florida.  The “hill tide” by definition is a significant high tide that sharply falls and flushes tons of food out of the bigger estuaries (Tampa Bay & Charlotte Harbor) into the Gulf.  The tarpon intercept this abundance of crabs and baitfish in the passes and the numbers of tarpon slurping up this buffet are staggering!

Avid tarpon anglers dip net pass crabs and drift fish the crunchy little morsels in these productive passes… jumping and fighting tarpon on primarily heavy spinning tackle.  Both crabs & threadfins produce fish… but I prefer tossing crabs because the marauding mackerel will often scuff up my tarpon leaders on a regular basis.  The set up is quite simple… a 5000 to 7500 class spinning reel, a stout 15lb-30lb 7’ heavy action spinning rod, 40# to 50# braided line (main line), a 5’section of 50# leader with a 1’ 80# bite tippet, and finally a 6/0 to 8/0 circle hook depending on the size of your bait. 

The best technique is to drift these passes… keeping your crab or threadfin on a slack line so that it appears to swim natural; very attractive to the feeding tarpon.  The problem with being anchored is that when the tide is running hard your presentation is often on a tight line (threadfins tend to spin & crabs pull their legs in)… that’s not a natural look and reduces your hook-up odds greatly.  Another issue to consider if anchored is the additional time it takes to throw the hook (anchor) so that the boat can pursuit the hooked tarpon… this time can be costly and swings the advantage into the tarpon’s favor!  Remember when fighting tarpon, the shorter the battle the better your chances of landing the fish… the longer the battle the advantage definitely goes to the tarpon (i.e. leader failure, a thrown hook, sharks, etc.).

There also are a few courtesies that must be extended in some drift fishing scenarios… don’t motor uptide through everyone’s drift for one.  Make a long drift through the tarpon zone and once you’re well past that area… slow motor around the outside of the drift fishing traffic to get into position once again.  Also once another boat has hooked a tarpon and the battle ensues be aware of that angler’s fish… that might require you to reel your lines in and slow idle out of the way.  It hurts when a tarpon is lost because another boat wasn’t paying attention or doesn’t extend the common courtesy of moving out of the way.  And finally once the tarpon is landed boat side… don’t bring him into the boat for pictures; keep the fish in the water for a quick photo and spend plenty of time reviving the fish so he lives to fight another day.

This style of tarpon fishing has always been a great summer pastime… it’s not rocket science, folks.  This summer get out there and catch “tarpon fever”… it’s a chance to hook the fish of a lifetime!

Flats Class recommendations:

Daiwa Saltist 4500H spinning reel

Daiwa Saltist STE 70MHFS 7’ MH 15-30lb spinning rod

50# Daiwa Samurai Braid (main) , 50# Seaguar Fluorocarbon leader w/ 80# tippet

Owner 2X strong 7/0 circle hook

Until next time… keep’em bent!